CAMSHAFT :)

So I am thinking about getting cams seen as you all jumped on me about it when you found out about my dads workshop.
So out of BD10, BD14 or cultus cams which is better ??
But mostly want to know which is better out of BD10 and BD14 cultus cams I just seen for sale somewhere so i thort i would ask about them as well. seen as your all smart little beings.

some people say BD14s are to lumpy for daily driving, but i disagree as i know so does white rhys, he is running BD14's

and for that, he is also an active member of the mighty HJ's krew

Too lumpy ? You must be joking it made the Afgan sound tougher than a stroker 8

No cam is too lumpy! Go the BD14's

TimmyEk1 wrote: it made the Afgan sound tougher than a stroker 8

Sorry not possible

afghan doesn't have BD14's

So im guessing no one is a big fan of BD10s??
whats the difference???
BD14s are more lumpy is that it??

answers you seek are here:

http://www.tighecams.com.au/cars.htm

mmmm tasty

BD14's or ban

pretty simple

Actually to be truthful you can go too big. Cams require certain things to get the best out of them in any car. Namely compression ratio and cylinder head flow. If you put a cam in that is too big without upping the compression ratio and having decent flow in the head (hence porting the head) then you may end up with a poor running piece of poo that has a very very short power band and doesn't make as much power as it could with a smaller cam. I am not up on the specifics of GTi cams but I know people have used BD14's with good results in stock compression motors with no head work. But I am willing to bet a little more compression and a minor head clean up would bring out the best in them. Chances are with more compression and head work you could go bigger than bd14's quite easily. Anyone know if you can simply shave the head of the GTi's for a little more compression?

im pretty sure it cant go slower than it already does
its either getting sold or getting major mods cause its pis sing me off
My dad will port the head if thats what needs to be done for it to get better flow

I don't recommend taking much material off when porting heads unless you've done plenty of those particular heads for performance applications before, and have a flow bench. What he can do however is just tidy up the intake and exhaust ports of all the litttle casting dags and irregularities, nothing major and it will still benifit a fair bit.

But that said, buy a V8

but you still need a bit of air disruption in a small n/a motor....

so what port the head or not?? hahahhaa you guys are confusingg

Remove the head, they're just excess weight...

^ argreed

haha so no head? that can be arranged

Well sugartits, this is what i reccomend.
- SR20 throttle body with a nice intake pipe to suit.
- Shave head slightly
- Port but no polish, as N/A motors need turbulance otherwise it affects the burn pattern
- BD14's will suit the above mods nicely but also an exhaust is a nessecity.

Oh and ashlee, i do good headjobs!

^ he speaks the truth.....

fat jdm f**k wrote:Well sugartits, this is what i reccomend.
- SR20 throttle body with a nice intake pipe to suit.
- Shave head slightly
- Port but no polish, as N/A motors need turbulance otherwise it affects the burn pattern
- BD14's will suit the above mods nicely but also an exhaust is a nessecity.

Oh and ashlee, i do good headjobs!

Thank you White Rhys

Oh and the name is Ashlea not ashlee there pronounced different

AFGHANGTi wrote:^ he speaks the truth.....

you had one of his famoous headjobs eh??

id rather not talk about it

Dammit you guys beat me to the head comment haha.

Yeah as Rhys already said, no polishing. Polishing is an old school practice that can actually be a detriment, air flows better over an iregular service anyway (think dimples on a golf ball) and nobody polishes these days afaik. After all that rhys mentioned is done, get yourself a tough gearbox then keep going with the power mods.

Before you do them mods, sell it and buy something with a strong tight box...

Like a turbo 350 auto behind a 355 stroker in a VK commodore